29th June 2014
Time for the quarterly Vulcan update 😉
Work continues with the filling, sanding and re-scribing… Let’s face it, 90% of this build is filling, sanding and re-scribing, and once finished it’ll probably take an afternoon to get the paint on and finished.
That’s still some way off so on with the fun.
By the way, I’m going to have trouble finding anything other than filling, sanding and scribing to put in these updates, so if you’re not a fan of filling, sanding and scribing please look away now.
My initial intentions for this kit was to do it wheels down. But since these intentions occurred about 8 years ago (when I first started this kit) I have changed my mind and am now going for a wheels up configuration. The reason being that this is a large kit and will end up on top of my Ikea glass display cabinet (it’d too big to fit inside it), and up there all you’re going to see is the equivalent view as if you lay on your belly 100 yards in front of a real Vulcan. The Vulcan is an aircraft that’s best viewed directly from above or below to get a real appreciation of it’s awesome shape. So with that in mind I’m going to close up the wheel wells and she’ll be mounted on some acrylic rods at a typical crazy angle that these monsters were capable of achieving with ease.
The gear doors were a fairly poor fit in keeping with the rest of the kit. The front doors didn’t have much to locate against so I cut two lengths of sprue and glued these in place for the doors to sit on while they glue.
There’s going to be some gap filling required here, will glue some plasticard into the gaps to close them up.
While the glue dries on the underside, on with the upper surfaces…
There’s going to need to be some filling below the vertical stabiliser…
The wing root joins are much like a Cliff Richard Discography – long and naff. Here you can see the old polystyrene cement that was originally used has gone yellow with age (again, parallels with Sir Cliff there).
A similar story on the other wing…
Out comes the PPP (Perfect Plastic Putty) and already the seams are looking better.
I usually plaster the PPP on fairly thick because it’s so easy to sand back. So rather than fanny around with masking and dabbing, a good coating of PPP ensures full coverage and a few swipes with a Flory sponge gets it back into shape in no time…
My usual routine for filling now comprises of getting most of the filler off with a coarse Flory Sanding Sponge, then a good buffing with the fine side of the black sponge, then a good buffing with the blue side of a polisher and finally onto the white.
For a long flat (when I say flat I mean very gently curved) surface also use a flat sanding stick to go over the join. If you only use a sponge you will not be getting rid of any high spots, merely making them smooth. Using a hard flat sanding stick ensures any bumps are sanded absolutely flat. Once flat you can use a sponge from there onwards…
After the white polisher has been used, you can have a good squint along the join in the light to see it there are any scratched, voids or dips that will need more work.
I prefer to do as much finishing as possible before applying primer because once the primer goes on it gets messier to sand. Unless you wet sand the primer will clog your sanding sticks, so easier to sand bare plastic which doesn’t clog.
And back to some scribing.
I do most scribing by holding a scribing guide in place by hand and scribing along it.
So for the scenario below where the coloured lines need to be re-scribed I’d first scribe in the line marked in red, and then do the lines larked in green.
The reason being that you can put the tip of the scriber into the groove of the red line and scribe from there. Alternatively you can scribe the green lines towards the red lines and you can feel when the scriber hits the red line and stop. If you tried to do all the green lines and then do the red line you’d have no chance of all the green lines coming to a precise stop at the red line.
For cases where you have a chicken and egg scenario i.e. the lines all meet at corners and you can’t start or finish cleanly at another line such as for the pencilled in square panel shown below I usually tape down scribing guides to provide a stop to scribe up to.
BTW I don’t usually pencil in the lines to scribe unless they’ve been totally obliterated by sanding. Here I’ve done it so you can see the lines I’m talking about in the photo…
Also before scribing I sand down the panel lines I’m working on so they are only just visible. If you leave them at full height they can cause the scriber to skip out of place as you scribe the line.
To scribe the square I use masking tape to secure a guide along the right hand line.
The guide is just an old feeler gauge, they are an idea size and thickness for this job.
Same again for the left hand edge of the square to be scribed…
With the guides (acting as end stops) in place, you can place your chosen scribing guide (in this case a Lionroar scribing template) and proceed to scribe in the line. Here I’m about to scribe in the top line, rinse and repeat for the bottom line of the square.
When the top and bottom lines of the square have been scribed, the left and right sides can be scribed along the taped down scribing guides. Simply locate the scriber in the groove of the top line and scribe towards the bottom line.
This helps ensure that the corners are sharp without any over or undershoot.
From here many of the lines start or stop against a line in the square I’ve just scribed, so with that in mind a whole world of scribing lays ahead of me 😉
Next update – filling, sanding and scribing (I expect). 😀