28th January 2017
If you enjoy the assembly aspect of making a model, then this is the kit for you. So many kits you have to paint bit, glue it in place, paint a bit more, glue that bit in place, do some filling, do some sanding, paint and glue a bit more. This kit is pretty much build, build, build all the way. Filling and sanding is minimal, and the only bit that needs painting prior to assembly is the flightdeck.
So with that in mind – let’s get on with more building…
Next up are the under wing fuel tanks or slipper tanks as they are known.
Here I’ve glued the three main parts of the slipper tanks, the small rear end cones can go on after the glue has set. I’ve got them in the clamps just to squeeze the front section together as the glue dries. It’s not really necessary as the parts are a good fit though.
Next it’s time to assemble the wing trailing edge fairings or “Kuchmann Carrots” as they are known after the RAF engineer that developed them (I’m guessing his name was Kuchemann, not Carrots).
The Kuchemann Carrots improve airflow over the trailing edge of the wing, and were also used to house stores such as chaff.
Again, no problems here, you can just fit the parts together, apply some Tamiya extra thin to the seams and they’re good to go. Later when the glue has fully set I’ll re-scribe the underneath and add some rivet detail.
And moving on we get to the jet pipes.
Here we are with the bomb aimers glass installed.
I used Tamiya extra thin glue for this as the clear part is a very good fit.
You need to be careful when using extra thin to glue clear parts, best to get the part fitted precisely and then touch the glue to the edges of the seams. Resist the urge to press the clear part down after gluing as you risk the glue wicking up onto the visible part of the glass.
Ok, onto one of the few problem areas of the kit, or more specifically a problem with the instructions.
I decided to model this one with everything closed up, including the flaps.
Looking back at the instructions, step 28 tells you to cut off the part circled in red below if you are modelling the flaps up.
DO NOT CUT THIS PART
The part that you should cut is shown circled in red below in step 79.
You can see the confusion in the instructions in the picture below…
The incorrectly cut part in step 28 is circled in red. As you can see this part is nothing to do with the flaps.
And the part you should have cut is shown circled in green below. Note that the diagram below shows both parts removed – you should only have removed the part circled in green if you are modelling her with flaps up.
Here you can see the spurious part still intact (inside the red circle).
To fix this I cut through the part along the green line with a razor saw.
The part then came away cleanly…
Which allowed the flaps to sit flush.
What makes this cockup in the instructions really annoying is that now I have got to scratch build the fairing that I cut off in step 28 and threw away.
It’s not a big deal, just frustrating that it creates a sanding and filling job that was totally unnecessary.
A bit of glue and some gentle clamping of the flaps and they are good to go.
Now at this stage I was once again at home to Mr. Cockup…
I decided that for simplicity (I’m going for a clean configuration with this build) I would use the supplied “free fall” bomb door instead of the Blue Steel one.
After I had glued the free fall bomb bay door I started having doubts as to whether this was appropriate for the version I’m building, and after a little reading and some soul searching I realised that this build is really the Blue Steel variant (hence BS in the name) and that the free fall doors (which would have been used on the Iron Sun variant) would not have been used on the version I am building.
Presumably the free fall bomb doors have been included for a future variant by Airfix – perhaps a Mk.1 or a K (tanker) version?
So having glued in the wrong bomb bay doors, I decided to saw them out with the trusty razor saw and fit the Blue Steel bay doors. (Love my razor saw).
Things are testing me a little now, I’ve had it easy on this build for too long 😉
The Blue Steel bay doors didn’t fit properly. Now I’m quite sure I didn’t overcut when I removed the free fall bomb doors but I can’t be 100%. Anyway there is a 1mm gap at the front edge of the Blue Steel bay door.
I’m going to fill the gap with styrene sheet. I don’t have 1mm sheet so have glued two layers of 0.5mm sheet onto the end of the bay door.
When the glue has fully set, the excess styrene was trimmed off with scissors.
Then the styrene was whittled down with a sharp blade and finally honed into shape with an Alec scraper.
That’s better, the bay now fits nicely and can be glued in place.
Another easy little job – fitting the bullet cone on the front of the tail fin. It might need a bit of blending in later, but I’ll handle all the fettling in one go at the end.
Time for the slipper tanks to go on. They fit quite well and will require just a small amount of Perfect Plastic Putty around the join to take care of minor gaps.
Now that the Kuchemann Carrots has set it was time to re-scribe the detail and add some rivet detail with my MDC rivet tool.
Here’s the carrots in place, she’s really starting to look like a Victor now!
And lastly for this update the glass goes on.
The glass is a really nice fit on this kit, and a dab of Tamiya Extra thin secures it in place.
I used to always use PVA or School glue for canopies, but the problem with it is that it remains rubbery when dry, which makes it difficult sometimes to get a clean joint between the canopy and fuselage. Often times I’d sand the seam which would pull up a small bobble of rubbery PVA leaving a scruffy joint. So now I prefer to use Tamiya Extra thin glue for canopies and just be really careful not to get the glue on the visible part of the glass.
Next update: Finishing off a few little fuselage jobs, fettling and getting some primer on 🙂