17th December 2016
Moving on with the wing assembly…
Here I’ve glued in place the lower half of the intake assembly (remember the wing is upside down at this stage). The fit was very good, leaving a fairly minor seam where the two halves join together.
Towards the bottom of the photo you can see two inserts that attach to the inside walls of the intakes.
The inserts aren’t a perfect fit, but it doesn’t matter as they are deep in the intakes and won’t be very visible.
As you can see there is a bit of a seam visible on the front edge of the inserts, I’ll give this a sand later once the glue has dried to blend it in a bit.
Next job is the main wheel wells.
These comprise 4 parts that positively locate into the wing assembly. Again, the walls are quite thick which makes for a much more positive fit. There’s no worries as to whether you have the components in the right positions as they fit together really well, and don’t move around once in place.
Here’s one of the wheel wells in place, as you can see there’s a reasonable bit of detail in there.
I must admit I’m not a fan of detailing up areas that won’t be seen, so with the wheel wells they’ll just get a spray of silver and a wash. But if you’re into doing the whole detail thing these will give you a good starting point – add in a few wires and you’d be good to go.
Ok, back to the intakes now the glue has set.
Here the intake has had a bit of a sand – as yet no filler has been used. The horizontal seam has almost gone but the curved seam you can see will require a little filler.
Here’s a different angle where you can see the seams on the right of the central splitter. I’m pretty happy with this so won’t spend any more time on it. By the time the other splitter vanes are fitted and it’s had a coat of paint it won’t be a problem.
To sort out the curved seam I applied a small amount of CA glue and hit it with activator spray. This is now my preferred way of filling because a) The CA with activator spray dries instantly. You don’t have to wait for it to dry like traditional filler. b) It doesn’t shrink. If you use cellulose based filler, or dissolved styrene it will shrink and the seams can re-appear after painting.
The seams have cleaned up nicely and it didn’t take long to sort out. Hats off to Airfix on this part, as it can be a real time waster if you have to spend too long on intake seams.
Next job is to fit the vertical splitters. These fit into the intakes through the slots provided, and locate into grooves moulded in the inside of the intake.
A bit of Extra Thin glue on the top and bottom edges fixes them in place, and here you can see that classic Victor intake assembly.
I have to say I really enjoyed this part of the build. The parts flow into place and you don’t have to spend much time on filling, sanding and fettling seams.
Still working on the wing assembly, next job was to build up the rear section of the engines.
Again, no dramas here, just glue the two halves together.
Work begins on the wingtips. The instructions call for a small section to be removed.
This is easily done using a scalpel.
Here’s one of the wing tips having been glued in place.
The fit here is perfect. The wing tip locates positively on the spar and there is absolutely no seam between the wingtip and the main wing.
Again, I used Tamiya white label cement for this as it’s quite a chunky assembly.
Next up was the mating half of the wing tip. I used Tamiya white glue for the large surfaces inside the wing, and glued the edges using Extra Thin.
Here the quality of the kit is really starting to show, the wing halves fitted perfectly and I doubt any filler will be required on the seams. Lovely stuff.
With the jet pipes glued, they can be fitted in the rear of the wing assembly. Once again, these are a beautiful fit and there’s no doubt that they are in the correct location as there is absolutely no play in the assembly.
Moving back to the fuselage, the front wheel well and bulkhead is glued in place.
And then the bomb bay ceiling and rear bulkhead are fitted. The fit here is absolutely perfect. There is no gap between the ceiling and the fuselage side for the full length of the assembly.
And finally for this update, the rear air brake bulkhead goes into position. The fit of this part is a little more vague as there is no location tab for the top edge of the bulkhead. But it’s not a major problem, just eyeball it to get it vertical will be good enough.
By the way, the kit includes a really nice open airbrake assembly. So if you wanted to model her with the airbrake open you could do a really nice job here. I’m building this one with the airbrake closed so I’ll have to miss out on all that lovely detail.
Next update – painting the flight deck and closing up the fuselage.