1st July 2014
I received the Mr Metal Color Brass Metalizer (MC219) from Models R Go today (cheers John!) so decided to finish off the left hand side of the seat.
Left over from the previous update it was the valve on the oxygen bottle that was waiting to be turned to purest fake brass.
The colour call-outs in the Italeri instructions seem a bit slap dash in places… For the oxygen bottle valve they called for flat black (which I blindly followed not giving it enough thought at the time). But looking at some reference shots it’s clearly a brass connector – hence the brass metaliser.
When using buffable metaliser I prefer to mask and spray it if I can, brushing it on can work well, but certainly for the Iron colours I find spraying gets a better finish and for dark iron you get that awesome dusty look that would be hard to achieve by brushing.
With respect to masking I find you have to mask as if your life depended on it. Metaliser will find its way past any half hearted attempt at masking and travels for miles, so definitely worth taking the time to totally seal up the item being metalised.
Here’s the finished valve, gotta say I’m pretty disappointed by the brass metaliser – it didn’t buff anywhere near as well as the Irons, Steels and Aluminiums that they do. In fact the main effect of buffing seemed to be to remove the paint altogether requiring a bit of mandraulic touching up.
That said, it certainly looks better than black and will be fine when it’s been installed on the seat and weathered.
Finally for the valve I painted in a gauge using a 0000 brush and Citadel black and white acrylics.
I take these build photos on my phone (Nokia Lumia 1020) which has a 40 megapixel sensor and they’ve just upgraded the camera software to shoot in JPEG and RAW. I like using RAW for photos as it allows you to tweak the settings to get a photo that looks closer to the original (hopefully). This is especially useful as using a camera on a mobile phone it isn’t easy to get a photo you can use straight out of the box as it were. The only downside is that the added level of detail serves to exaggerate any wavery painted lines and other blemishes, so what looks alright to the naked eye can look a bit naff when zoomed in and blown up (blown up as in enlarged, not as in taken out into Phil’s garden and blown up).
Last job before fitting all the left hand seat accessories was to make some P-Clips for the oxygen hose that I scratched during the previous session.
For this I took some thin lead wire and rolled it flat. Then it could be wrapped around a piece of the same diameter lead wire that I used for the oxygen hose and tweaked into shape with the tip of some fine tweezers and trimmed to length with a scalpel.
This was one of those jobs I wasn’t looking forward to, but in the end the clips turned out way better than expectation (and I didn’t lose any to the carpet monster, or forget about them and get them stuck to my elbow or anything).
And here we are with the left hand side of the seat accessoried up and detailed.
You can see the P-Clips on the black hose that runs to the left of the green oxygen bottle.
And the same from another angle…
So that’s the seat finished. As with the instrument panel I’m going to do final weathering and touching up when the whole cockpit is finished so that I can get a nice uniform effect to the whole kit rather than try to finish it in separate sections and risk them looking like they’re from different models at the end.